Saturday, December 31, 2011

2011 My year in Pictures

2011 - My year in pictures (very fast pictures!)


2011 Comes to an End!

Location: Shortland St, Auckland, New Zealand
Time: 8pm - Only 4hrs left in 2011!!!

Where does time go?? Already we find ourselves at the end of yet another year! If feels like just five minutes ago I was ringing in the 2011 in North Carolina USA and now I am about to say goodbye to it in Auckland New Zealand.

To say its been a roller-coaster of a year would be an understatement its been more akin to a complete theme park or even disneyland on steroids! I have had the opportunity to travel more than I have ever done before and have even had the opportunity to fulfill childhood dreams by attending the Kentucky derby, climbing Machu Picchu, and getting to a rugby world cup.

Work wise 2011 began with me working on a bar construction project in Charlotte North Carolina USA and has ended with me working on an office based financial card project in Auckland New Zealand - the two couldn't be future apart in contrast, such is the joy of "travel working"!

The rest of my year has been well documented on this site but once again the highlights have all revolved the people I have met along the way. as for a New years resolution - well its very simply to keep this blog updated more often! I am currently living and working in Auckland, replenishing the travel coffers so not much to report on, however I do have some big plans for 2012 - watch this space!

Monday, October 17, 2011

Blog - RWC Week 5

Location: Grand Chancellor Hotel, Auckland, New Zealand
Time: 23:00



Hard to believe its been 5 weeks and 46 games already! Only 6 days left until we know who the World Cup final winners will be and if this weekends semi-finals were anything to go by its already a foregone conclusion!

It broke my heart to see Wales go out against an appalling French "outfit", I cant even bring myself to call them a team. Controversial as Sam Warburtons sending off was it has to be said that Irish referee Alan Roland made the correct call. Im not suggesting that Warburtons tackle had any malice to it but the rules are clear on that type of tackle and he simply had to go.

It did destroy the game as a contest unfortunately and although a brave Wales battled hard with there one man deficit it wasent to be. For all their heart and determination poor kicking, a basic skill of the game, let them down in the end. And so the red armies march comes to a halt and is diverted to a 3rd/4th place playoff instead of a Final.

The All Blacks v Australia game was a much more interesting affair.... for about 20 mins! The dominent Kiwis controlled the game brilliantly and eventually sucked the life out of a Wallaby team that really had no tactical offense whatsoever. They were made to look ordinary - very very ordinary!

Thus a 24 yr old case of "De Ja Vu" now comes to fruition here in New Zealand as the both the final and the semi final parings are the exact same as they were in the inaugural world cup on these shores back in 1987. On that occasion the All Blacks won there one and only Webb Ellis Cup and it looks as though next Sunday should be their second and heres hoping as a French win would be disaster for the sport!

The French having lost two games already at this world cup find themselves in a world cup final that they themselves cant really fathom. Rumors of discontent in their camp are rife and the stories of wide spread boozing after the game by players at the disgust of management have only added fuel to the fire. Mark Leivermant the French manager even publicly critisized his players as "spoilt brats" after they went drinking to celebrate their semi-final victory even though he specifically requested that they did not follow the mistakes they made in 1999 when a 4 day binge drinking session after the semi-final came back to bite them in the final when they were comprehensively beathen by Australia.

Auckland has come alive at the prospect of the All Blacks finnaly banishing their 24 year hodoo and you would be forgivin for thinking post match on Sunday night that they had all ready won the cup! Its a really exciting time to be here and despite my hope that it would be a Wales v Australia final I have to admit that I am now "backing Black" 100%

Apart for the rugby going on there are also lots to see and do on the Auckland waterfront and I have had a great week enjoying the various events and exhibitions. Many "Super Yachts" have arrived in Auckland harbor and some are even been used as privet chartered hotels. The Maori community have erected a tent village on the Wharf and have been displaying their art-work and heritage for all to see and visit.

The Fanzone and exhibition area have been showcasing many events including the "Taste" New Zealand festival and an exhibition of "Kiwi Innovation" which included a robot wars competition and on display is the "Jet Black" car that is hoped to break the world land speed record early next year (see slideshow above). Not to be out done the rural community of New Zealand is also being show cased and for the last couple of days there has been a sheep shearing competition on the main stage in the Fanzone - I kid you not! I shot some video of it today....you can view it here! They slide show above also shows various pictures of whats being going on here in Auckland.

Thats all the news for now.... hopefully this day next week we will have a seen the All Blacks lift the Webb Ellis Trophy...... interesting that no team that has lost a game at a world cup has gone on to win it.... lets hope that continues as New Zealand couldn't possibly cope with the depression that a loss (esp to France) in the final would bring!!!

Video - Speed Shearing! More to RWC than Rugby!


Speed Shearing comp in the Rugby World Cup Fanzone here in Auckland...... 32 seconds to shear a sheep - not bad!

Monday, October 10, 2011

Blog - RWC Week 4 - The Dream is over!

Location: Grand Chancellor Hotel, Auckland, New Zealand.
Time: 11:00pm

And so the dream is over, so close yet so far. We have failed to slay the Dragon and thus the fairy-tale has come to a premature and un-scripted end.

I could blog for days about about the devastation and depression that I and the 35,000 Irish people here in New Zealand as well as what I can only assume the entire nation back home felt in the immediate aftermath of Saturday nights crushing defeat to Wales. However the greatest Irish sporting disappointment since Jack Charlton announced his retirement, has made us suffer for only the briefest of moments as we reflect and realize that the exhalation of the last 4 weeks has far out weighted the temporary grief of Saturdays loss.

Were out but were not down, we fought the good fight and in doing so we united as a nation to bring the pride, passion and glory of being Irish back into everyday life, something that in recent times has been all but forgotten due to the economic uncertainty and financial woes of the entire nation and immigration of many including the thousands of us who have been loyal foot soldiers (or more like "Camper Van" Soldiers) of the "Blarney Army" out here in new Zealand over the last month.

Never mind the Global Irish Economic Forum at Dublin castle, the real national success of last weekend was the Irish rugby team - even in defeat! The living breathing diaspora of Ireland out here in New Zealand and other migrant hubs worldwide, along with every man, woman and child back home in Ireland have enjoyed the motivational lifting of the nation and all it took were a mere 15 men and a rugby ball! You can bring together who you wish to solve Irelands current issues but the actions of Brian O'Driscal and Co here in this small country on the far side of the world will have done far more for the the immediate future of Ireland than any collection of business leaders, politicians & ex presidents! The Irish Rugby panel and staff, heros everyone of them, have demonstrated to us all that a little self belief can go along way. They have captivated the nation over the last 4 weeks providing inspiration when inspiration is in very short supply and had us all dreaming if even for the briefest of moments ...."what if"?? And wasn't it nice to day-dream instead of worry for a change!

Not since the days of Sonia O'Sullivan, Michael Curruth, Italia 90, and Japan/S.Korea 2002 has the entire population of Ireland found itself setting the alarm clocks to rise at all hours of the morning to cheer on our national sporting heros, and I can guarantee that as the kettles were being boiled at 5.45am last Saturday morning there wasn't a living soul in the Ireland worring about mortgages, credit card debt or employment prospects!  Instead I like to think that families sat together in front of TVs in living-rooms across the land and looked on in ernest at our sporting heros do battle, and even though we lost  it warms the heart to know that in some of those homes the next Brian O'Driscal's, Ronan O'Gara's, Paul O'Connel's & Sean O'Brien's were sitting eating their breakfast and being inspired by their idols on the TV in-front of them. In a modern day Ireland that is pre occupied with finding itself a new identify in the aftermath of the Celtic Tiger it is important that the innocent consistencies of childhood remain the same and with national heros like our entire rugby team the guarantee that there will be kids inspired to play and achieve like their idols in the future is now as perennial as the grass upon the fields which they will play - and thats the real victory of the last 4 weeks, Webb Ellis Trophy or not!

Granted it is easy to get carried away with sentimentality - it is only a game after all - but sport is one of the few things in life with where emotion is accepted and even expected and the symbolism of what RWC 2011 has meant to Ireland over the last 4 weeks cannot go unnoticed. What I mean by this is that irrespective of the teams performance, the RWC cup has highlighted and brought to the fore-front the issue of the mass immigration from Ireland. Its no secret that Ireland have been the best supported foreign team (by far!!!) at the RWC and likewise it is no secret that this is primarily because of recent economic migration from Ireland to this corner of the globe. New Zealand and Irish media have eluded to this in numerous broadcasts and bulletins since the beginning of the RWC and even George Hook jumped on the band wagon by expressing his "sadness" that so many young people have had to leave Ireland. Well George while I appreciate that your "sadness" is with the best intentions it is like much of your punditry - mis-directed, as sadness is certainly not a common trait you will find among any Irish person who has found themselves on this side of the world.

Yes we all miss family and friends that is of course a given. However beyond the occasional craving for Tayto crisps or withdrawal symtoms from the lack of a proper "Shnacck Box" there really isent anything to be sad about being temporally away from home at all! Each and everyone one of us are here because we want to be here and we are making the most of the opportunity we have been given - even if due in some cases to a negative circumstance for Irish people. However this so called "forgotten" generation who have had to immigrate are resilient people and we are getting on with the situation we find ourselves in with smiles on our faces. We are playing the hand we have been dealt and by god are we making the most of it as only Irish people know how!!

The reality is that us Irish people have always traveled and not just for economic reasons, were island people and thus its in our souls to want to wonder and explore, to see what's over the hill in front of us or around the next bend in the road - sure our beautiful Island would never have even been discovered unless our ancestors had thought the same way! Us modern day Irish nomads are no different in spirit and I think we are uniquely a nation who can go forth, explore and be welcomed and integrated to any world culture and yet still remain true to our own proud heritage. Here in New Zealand during the RWC we see a living example of that. To the best of my knowledge (I did try to have this confirmed but no joy as yet) not one Irish person has been arrested for any disturbance during the RWC. We have been loved and embraced by the local people in every-town the "Blarney Army" have traveled to for a match and yet not an ounce of trouble despite drinking New Plymouth & Rotoura dry!

So instead of being the "forgotten generation" I for one believe we are the "Lucky Generation" for we have gotten the opportunity to escape a socially decrepit Celtic Tiger Ireland where begrudgery and "keeping up with the Jonses" was the order of the day rather the more honorable endevours of helping your neighbor and community spirt. Here in New Zealand we (the Irish) help each other out and look out for each others well being. There is always someone new arriving and no-one wants for a place to stay to get settled or a contact for a job. Its exactly how I imagine things were years ago when Irish people immigrated to London or America, they would turn up with just a sleeping bag and a phone number (As Tommy Terinan would say) and they would be looked after by there own!!! (The Irish) The most positive of out comes from the RWC has been re invigoration of the Irish communities pried here in New Zealand of the country we come from. We all know that we will return home one day - visas dont last forever! - and we all look forward to it, but in the mean have no fear, the irish people here in New Zealand just like our rugby are doing the country proud and will continue to do so in the aftermath of the RWC and what returns from New Zealand to Ireland can only be a benefit for the nation also. Dont be sad for us all George, or anyone who shares his view - be sad for those who dont have the opportunity to travel and experience some of the world at all, as that's a worse tragedy.

Ok so ill get down off my soap box now!!! - Im backing Wales all the way to the world cup final. Great to see Australia winning also as it highlights how good Ireland had to be to beat them. The semi-finals are looking like great matches and I do think it will be a Wales v Australia final.

Interesting to note the the All Blacks are the only unbeaten side left in the comp and an unbeaten side has always won the RWC.!

Until next time.....

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Blog - Proud to call myself a Carlow man!

Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Time: Midnight

Sean O'Brien the current colossus of world rugby, the man who has made Chuck Norris redundant and the first man in history to whom "Twitter" has "joined" rather than the other way round! is currently taking the rugby world cup by storm and in doing so is putting my home county of Carlow firmly on the map.

Whether its the now infamous "#seanobrienfacts" or the "Tullow Tank" winning the the Player of pool C award, the Carlow man is all the talk at the moment even in an Auckland pub last night when  a Cork chap says to me "ye must be delighted about Sean O'Brien - finally something good to have come out of Carlow!!!" To which I replied "sure were all as awesome as him in Carlow - Sean is just the first Carlow man to play in the rugby world cup!" and we all had a laugh and and a joke and drank our beers.... but it got me thinking...... Do people really think us Carlow people had nothing to be proud of before Sean O'Brien????

Yes we may be known as the "scallion eaters" and granted we might not find ourselves in Croke park in September very often but I for one am a very proud Carlow man and have made it my mission to show my county pride everywhere I have traveled around the world in the last 21 months.. My Carlow jersey is my most prized clothing possession and I have enjoyed being photographed in it at many many world sites - my photo album is a testament to that! At all the Irish world cup games here in New Zealand I have proudly worm my Irish jersey but underneath has always been my Carlow jersey - closest to my heart! Pulling a jersey over my head is easy however, anybody could do that so let me explain exactly why I have pride in my home county.

Co Carlow is chiseled into formation by the natural boundaries of the Blackstairs mountains to the east and the Barrow river to the west, between them lies a patchwork quilt of picturesque fertile farm land which all combined make Co. Carlow a landscape of undeniable beauty. Ive climbed Macchu Picchu and it was breath taking, and climbed in the Rockies & the Andes but give me Mt Leinster with its summit view any day! Ive had the privilege to swim in great rivers like the Amazon, the Mississippi and the Hudson and while all great experiences, none were superior to jumping in the Barrow in Clashganny, St Mullins or Leighlin bridge! I do believe we often forget the beauty that lies on our own door step and while personally I am currently traveling and seeing the world and loving every minute of it, the reality is there is nowhere like home and I view the world while traveling as though I have already come from the best part (Carlow) .... and thus far im not wrong!

While the landscape makes the countryside ascetically pleasing its real achievement is in being the foundation upon which the real treasure of Carlow - its People - have been shaped. Carlow people (even pre Sean O'Brien) are made of stern stuff and always have been. Patrick Reid the first and only man to lead a successful escape from Nazi Colditz prison was Carlow man, another, Arthur McMurragh Kavanagh was a famous politian, horseman and sailer despite having no arms or legs!

Carlow people have historically been at the fore-front of science and innovation, men like Willian Dargan the "Father of Irish railways" and John Tyndal the man who explained to the world why the sky is blue were both proud Carlow men. Pierce Butler, one of the founding fathers of the USA was also a Carlow man having been born in Carlow in 1744. He went on to be a representitive for South Carolina in the US Senate.

Carlow people are are no strangers to the arts and entertainment world either with academy award nominee Saoirse Ronan, kathryn Thomas and the infamous Richie Kavanagh all proud to call themselves Carlovians! Even Michael Flatly has an ancestry link to Carlow in that his mother hailed from St Mullins and indeed the only man to win both a Nobel prize and an Academy award - George Bernard Shaw, was a property owner in Carlow and now has a theater named in his honor in Carlow town center.

Now of course added to the list of famous Carlow people we have Mr Sean O'Brien! Named as the "Player of Pool C ahead of some big name stalwarts like Sergio Pieriso and David Pocoke, Sean O'Brien has launched himself into the spotlight of world rugby and yet off the field remains the cool, calm, collective and modest farmers son that he is and was reared to be. Being a Carlow man myself listening to him being interviewed in his Carlow accent is welcoming on the ears but watching him being interviewed is painful as I can see in his eyes what he really wants to say but which he knows he cant because the world simply would not understand... for Sean O'Brien wants to tell the world is that the reason he is so awesome is because he is a Carlow man!

Sean O'Brien's character epitomizes the people of Carlow with his grit and determination, his work effort and his never say die attitude. He wears his pride on his sleeve for all to see - except of course when its hidden by the rugby ball tucked tightly in his arm as he goes on another line breaking run! Sean O'Brien has made us all proud to be Irish and has reminded us Carlow folk of the pride there is in being from Irelands second smallest county, and Sean we thank you for it.

The rugby world cup has given us a local super star but it has also answered a 5000 year old question as to how they managed to put the capstone (which is Europe's largest at 100 tones) on top of Carlow's famous Brownshill Dolman........................ It was Sean O'Brien of course!!!

Sean, your doing your country and your county proud....... from one proud Carlow man to another - keep it up son!

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Blog - RWC Week 3

location: Hotel Grand Chancellor, Auckland, New Zealand
Time: 19:00


We beat Russia, Scotland get knocked out, Dan Carters world cup is over and New Zealand immigration are finally seeing some sense on my work holiday visa.... yes its week 3 of the Rugby World Cup!


Its an October Sunday evening in Auckland and the rain is battering the window outside. The Auckland Sky tower that normally emulates the city sky is cloud covered and nowhere to be seen. The streets I can see from the balcony of the Grand Chancellor hotel I am staying are also devoid of life and and the newly formed streams of water trickle into the gutters without the slightest interruption of any passing traffic....... in other parts of the world this scene would be pretty depressing but this is New Zealand, its 2011, and its week 3 of the Ruby World Cup.


Weather-wise thisevening is very similar to this day last week when I was in Rotorua for the Russia game. I had traveled down with two friends(Shane McEvoy & Aisling McDonald) who had hired a car for the day. Intent on seeing as much as we could from our one day in Roturua we left Auckland early and decided to visit the naturally accruing spring pools on the banks of lake Rotorua just outside the town. The city is known for its geothermal activity, and features geysers – notably the Pohutu Geyser at Whakarewarewa – and hot mud pools and while visually interesting to see the smell they create is anything but - Its not called the Devils armpit for no reason! Thankfully the stadium was far enough from the lake to not have the same smell and so I and the 20,000 other Irish supporters took our places on in the stands and watched the glorified training session unfold in from of our eyes. It was a walk in the park really expect for a couple of moments when we fell aspllep and let the Russians in for a couple of soft trys. It was a good opportunity for the squads fringe players to get a run and all in all it was a grand relaxing afternoon watching rugby!


In the week since we have seen the tournament begin to take some shape, Scotland have been knocked out France have been beaten by Tonga but still progress to the Quarter Finals. South Africa, New Zealand and Wales also all progress as do Argentina and hopefully in approx 3 hours time we can say the same about Ireland. What hasn't been such a dead cert for the past two weeks is weather or not I would get my New Zealand work visa, having heard nothing for 2 weeks I finally decided to make a call on Thursday to discover that my application had been sent to be medically assessed - apparently having metal plates where my forehead should be had raised a few eye brows, and while it was unlikely to lead to me being prevented a work visa it did mean that it could take up to two months to process following a couple of consultations with New Zealand's medical finest. However as I pointed out to my very friendly immigration advisor I could have flown to Australia found an internet cafe at the airport and applied for my visa which would have been issued in less that an hour and without the need for a medical to be done and at half the cost to which she explained that I could apply for a less than one year visa without the requirement of the medical!!!!! All I had to do was prove i was leaving in less than a year from the day I arrived in New Zealand which was Sept 4th and she could grand me a visa up until that day! So I booked a flight for Aug 15th next year and hopefully will have my visa tomorrow (Monday!).


Finally, hung the Irish Flag from the balcony of the hotel yeaterday and also met the David & Frank Murphy from Borris in the pub lat night here in Auckland, small world - see pics above. Now im off to the see Ireland beat Italy and top the group.... Until next time...

Saturday, September 24, 2011

Blog - RWC Week 2

Location: Hotel Grand Chancellor, Auckland, New Zealand.
Time: 20:00



Its Saturday so its time for a Rugby World Cup blog update. I had great intentions of writing this blog much sooner in the week in wake of Irelands epic victory over the Wallabies last weekend, however each time I attempted to string a few sentences together about it I found myself at a loss for words to adequately describe it - such is its magnitude! Instead I have spent the week immersing my self in its aftermath and enjoying the post match Celtic atmosphere that has over run Auckland for the past seven days.

From the time the team was announced last Friday you could feel the anticipation building within the city. By Friday night every, "Mick", "Paddy" and leprechaun in the Southern hemisphere had descended upon Auckland and a party of "Itlaia 90" proportions was in full swing. Maybe its a testament to my age but one of the funniest things I saw in the pub on Friday night was a group of lads wearing t-shirts that said "F@%K Scalaci" on them.... a classic reference to the man who knocked us out of the soccer World Cup in way back in 1990. Saturday morning and afternoon in the build up to the game were no different with all 15 Irish pubs in Auckland being over capacity by midday! In some cases the police had to come to temporarily clear out the over crowded bars but there was no trouble and no arrests just a good hearted atmosphere and even the Wallabies were getting in on the act and drinking in the Irish bars with the Irish. My mate Des had flown back from Sydney for the game and although we both had tickets I managed to do a bit of "blagging" with an Ozzy lady and ended up getting 2 Category B $600 tickets for $200.... bullshit is a virtue.... and I guess one ive perfected and so I got to sell the original tickets to two other friends who had never been to a rugby game before.... not a bad one to start at!

Irelands Call being sung at Ire V Aus RWC2011.
This was the view from my "blagged" $600 (I paid $200) seats!

Yes its only a rugby game but it brings people together with a common goal and common appreciation for its spectacle. The sea of green that covered Eden Park was a sight to behold. The game had barely seen its first tackle before chants of 'Ole Ole Ole' erupted and resounded around the stadium. Eden park was alive and it was green and it was undoubtedly Irish. Yes the Ozzies tried there best, indeed Matilda was waltzing alright but she was at the wrong dance! for we were a nightclub in Ibiza and Healy, O'Connel, Driscol, Bowe and O'Gara were mixing the tunes in the DJ booth, Ferris and O'Brien were the man mountain bouncers whom no Ozzie was passing and Kidney the manager with the midas touch looked down from his glass incased "VIP" booth and commanded all he surveyed. Yes we controlled the dance floor that was the Eden park grass and nothing not even divine intervention could have stopped it from being an Irish night. The noise level was constant and even rose briefly when 58,000 Irish screamed at Johhny Sexton to "Give it to ROG" after he had missed some crucial kicks.... yep im sure even Antarctic penguins heard that one!, but we forgive you Johnny... you kept us on the edge of our seats!


I tweeted right after the game that "there are moments in life that define the appreciation of our existence and I had just witnessed one tonight in Eden Park". It was the best way I could come up with to describe the joy and exiliration of having been there to witness one of our nations greatest sporting acheivments. The courage the heart, the conviction to the cause, the relentlessness of effort, the passion displayed were second to none. Sport is the only activity on the planet where every emotion known to man is contrived to seek a victory over another and in doing so it brings out the best in us all. Its a temporary microcosm of war but where personal excellence and achievement is the goal rather than sacrifice of another. We play and watch sport to appreciate the accomplishment of the quest, to see the impossible become the possible and to enjoy the exaltation of the triumph. In Irelands case on Saturday night we saw years of heartache being banished by the grit, determination and belief of a chosen few to overcome the challenge and realize that this day victory would be there's. In the years to come I hope to witness and experience many many wonderful things but I will always remember that faithful night in strange city in a strange little country on the far side of the world where for the briefest of moments the world stood still and I along with the other 58,000 Irish souls in the stadium and millions watching around the world had our breath taken away........ and after all those are the moments we really live for. 

The Celebration in Auckland continued until at least Tuesday and everyone was in on it, even Sonya O'Sullivan whom I met on Queen St in the small hours of Sunday morning!

Sonya O'Sullivan with myself and Des.

All week the Kiwi media has been lording our performance and talking us up as potential final opponents for their beloved All Blacks. As things work out thats not now beyond the realms of possibility! We are certainly in the favored side of the draw with the 6 nations teams we are used to playing and beating and with a little luck we just might be in Eden park again for a semi-final or final but that is in the future next up we off on pilgrimage in the morning to Rortoura to play the Russians. We have a much changed team but none the less a very experienced one and we shouldn't have any difficulty in recording another win and cementing out position at the top of Pool C. 

Its a great time to be Irish and to be lucky enough to be out here to witness it first hand is only akin to being alive during these times at all...... long may it continue and sure as God himself (Declin Kidney) says in his quaint Cork accent "Sure we will enjoy each day as it comes"......, 

Until next time....

Friday, September 16, 2011

Blog - RWC Week 1


Location: Hotel Grand Chancellor, Auckland, New Zealand
Time 11:00pm

Its been a week already! I have been enjoying the RWC way to much to have had time to keep a daily blog but not to worry here is a synopsis of the weeks events!

Friday was the opening night of the championship and it certainly didn't disappoint. I joined the many thousands of others on Auckland's waterfront hoping to catch a glimpse of the arriving "Wakas" (Maori tribal boats) into Auckland harbor only to get caught up in what can only described as an organized chaos! Initial expectations of 10,000 to 15,000 spectators were totally underestimated when close to 100,000 Kiwi and International fans turned up for the event completely overwhelming local organizers, Police and the transport system. Big screen tv's failed at the vital moments and the mass "Haka" that was to be performed on the wharf had to be reconsidered as there was simply no room for it to happen! Although the crowd was predominately well behaved it was no place for the thousands of kids who had turned up and by the time the fireworks display began many had been wisely taken to other viewing points by concerned parents. For those lucky enough to have tickets for the opening game and ceremony at Eden park getting there proved more difficult than Tonga scoring a try against the All Blacks would, with many stranded on non moving trains and busses and approx 2000 missing the game altogether! It was a shambles but one which was really no ones fault! No body could have predicted the sheer volume of interest there would have been in the event however steps have been taken to sort out the issues for this weekends games and I doubt we will see a repeat of the chaos this weekend.

After being crushed in the melee and not wishing to que for at least an hour to get a pint my mate Shane and myself decided to cut our losses and head back up town to view the opening ceremony from the sanctuary of the pub! We found refuge in the Fiddler bar just underneath Auckland's iconic Sky-tower and when the fireworks display began we realized we had made an insipid choich as the tower itself was the center staging point for the spectacular display. The fireworks which lasted a good 15 minutes were bettered only by the opening ceremony itself from Eden Park where the $9m extravaganza was wowing audiences world wide with its simply but effective chaptered story of New Zealand. The opening game itself was a drab affair between a poor Tonga side and the much superior All Blacks who ran out easy victors. However nobody cared, the Rugby World Cup 2011 was finally here and the battle for the coveted Webb Ellis trophy had now begun and thats all that mattered.

Saturday saw Scotland scrape over the line against a poor Romanian side and we witnessed the "Mighty" England pressed all the way by an Argentina side that really should have won the game but for having no-one on the fired that could actually kick the ball between the posts! I watched the game in Fr Teds Irish pub where the best round of applause was saved for the bouncer who frog marched and English Fan complete with shirt and flag out of the bar just as soon as he walked in...... Fr Teds is an Irish bar but on Sat night it was a Puma bar and rightly so!

Sunday morning the real fun began when I woke early to catch the 7am bus to New Plymouth for Ireland V USA. I was making the trip with a fellow Irishman Des Flannigan from Roscommon who like myself has been backpacking for awhile and whom I had originally met in La Paz, Bolivia. County differences aside today we were untied in our common quest of seeing our fellow country men do the business against Eddie O'Sullivans American Eagles. Two stops for breakfast and a cup of tea and 6 hours later we arrived in a very rain soaked New Plymouth on New Zealand's west coast, however if felt more like arriving into Wesport or Killybegs considering the sea of green and familiar accents that greeted us! A brief visit to Fredrick's bar to see Australia beat Italy and it was off to the Tarranaki stadium for the main event. Its true that the Kiwis are among the friendliest people that you can meet and two locals on the bus to the stadium donated two ponchos to myself and Des upon realizing we were in the non covered part of the stadium and as it turned out we were very grateful for them! The Atmosphere at the Stadium was fantastic and to my pleasant surprise the Americans were well represented with support, I couldn't resist having my photo taken with the Ms Captain America wannabe I met at the bar!.....

Ms Captain America & Myself!

Our match against the USA was of course being played on Sept 11th, a fact that was lost on nobody. A minutes silence (or 30 seconds as it turned out to be thanks to some American bell-end yelling from the crowd!) was observed as a mark respect to those who had lost their lives on that fateful day 10 years ago. Everyone remembers where they were on that day, for me it was first day of college and I watched the event unfold on the tv in Scraggs Alley bar in Carlow. 10 years later I was at the Tarraniki Stadium in New Plymouth New Zealand at the rugby world cup about to see Ireland begin there campaign. The players also wore black arm bands and with ceremony and anthems completed it was time for the real event to take place. 

This was it, this is what we had come to the opposite side of the planet to witness, all the preparation, all the training, all the hard work, the injuries suffered, the points scored, the column inches wrote in anticipation, the pride, the passion the intensity and above all the expectation of a nation were about to come to fruition.... and you could tell that the players were well up for it.... all except for Johny Sexton of course who it seems failed to get the memo asking him to bring his kicking boots to the game!!! Johny aside the rest of team played well enough to win the game and thats all that mattered to me and the rest of the 15,000 Irish that had made the trip to see them. Granted we didn't win with the freeing flowing poetic type rugby that George Hook, Brent Pope and Conor O'Shea back in there preverbal Ivory tower that is there warm and dry studio in Dublin 4 would have liked, but who cares about them. Those of us in the rain in New Plymouth witnessed our 15 beat the 15 that lined out against them and thats all that can be asked or expected of them. Its sport not an art exhibition and if you cant see the art in trying to achieve the victory rather than how its achieved then you shouldn't be commentating upon it in the first place. A win is a win is a win and a win the Irish team had enough heart and conviction to achieve..... enough said.

Post game the celebrating was done in Peggy O'Gormans bar where they had decided to close off a street, erect a marquee and let the party begin. I hadn't been surrounded by so many Irish people in a long long time and its was great. They were there from all corners and apart from a brief 2 hours when we all became honorary Welsh supporters in their nail biting game against the Springboks, it was an Irish night and all that is good about our little nation was triumphing in a little town, in a little country on the far side of the world! New Plymouth was briefly "New Grange" and the party of Celtic proportions was in full swing until well after 3am when the bar ... RAN OUT OF BEER! Interesting to note also that there was only one arrest in the entire town that night and he was a local chap who took a swing at a bouncer! I had the pleasure of meeting a few locals from back home also, Aoife Murphy who is from "de Parish", a few from St Mullins down the road and even the niece of my old school principle back in Borris. Its a small world and even smaller as I have discovered when your wearing a Carlow jersey!!!

Being the wannabe "going on 30" party animals that myself and Des think we are we didn't bother organizing any accommodation. We were instead getting the 7am bus back to Auckland and once boarded it was time for some much needed sleep! Wishful thinking on a crowded bus however and so I found myself day dreaming out the window at the beautiful glorified golf course that the country side of New Zealand is. Now maybe it was the lack of sleep or the impending hangover but I decided there and then that I liked this country and 2 months here is probably not long enough to see it or appreciate it and so on Tuesday when back in Auckland I went online and applied for my New Zealand work/holiday visa! and thats when the fun started!!!

A New Zealand work/holiday visa is not a difficult thing to apply for, its simply a half an hours online application and $140 off the credit card, however if you apply while already in the country then you are subject to undergoing a full medical examination and chest/lung xray. Of course I didn't realize this until I received an email after submitting my online application. Being that I was already invested to the tune of $140 I figured I had nothing to loose (bar an additional $270 for the medical!) and made an appointment at the clinic. Having been traveling now for 20 months and having been in some" interesting" countries I felt that having a full medical was probobly not a bad idea irrespective of the visa application and so on Tuesday afternoon I found myself shirtless on a doctors table being prodded and poked by a not very attractive middle aged Kiwi lady. The medical was very inclusive to say the least and samples of everything were taken.... I also had to have a chest xray followed by an eye test and this is where things got interesting! I normally wear contacts but my latest batch got delayed in delivery and only arrived in the States the day AFTER I had left and presently I am still waiting for them to arrive in Auckland. Without the contacts I promptly failed the eye test and thus risked being declined a work visa however the doctor explained to me that I could retake the test when I returned on Thursday for my other test and xray results but I had to make sure I brought my contacts or glasses!!! Knowing that I wouldn't have the contacts in time and as I dont have a pair of glasses I realized I needed a plan "C" and so by delaying getting dressed I ended up being left alone in the room and promptly took a photo on my camera phone of the eye chart, spent all day Wednesday memorizing it and returned on Thursday with borrowed glasses as a prop and passed the test with flying colors!!!! Travel as with life is all about finding ways to over come obstacles.... even ones you cant see!!! 

So the good news is im perfectly healthy and the visa application has been submitted for processing however none of that is relevant for the next 2 days at least as were now in the build up to Ireland V Australia tomorrow night in Eden park, the tickets have been sorted, the flag and Carlow jersey are washed and ready to go and the anticipation is building. Sexton is starting again but thats no problem as every fan including myself are bringing our own boots just in case he f*@ks things up again!!! 

C'mom the Irish.... and Carlow man Sean O'Brien - time to show the world cup what a cattle farmer from Tullow is capable of!!!

Until next time.......

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Blog - RWC Day 1



Location: Hotel Grand Chancellor, Auckland, New Zealand
Time 12.30pm

So here it is! We are on the cusp of the wave that is the Rugby World Cup and its literally just a few short hours to kick off. As mentioned in yesterdays blog the rugby world cup has been my goal ever since I began this madness of traveling not just in being a far off goal to aim for but also a goal to make enough cash along the way to actually afford to be here - well goals accomplished as long as I can stay disciplined on the amount of beer I drink over the next 7 weeks!

In October 2007 at the last world cup in Paris, France I had the opportunity to visit the giant rugby ball the New Zealand tourist board had erected underneath the Eiffel tower as a way to showcase their country for the next world cup in 2011. It was awe inspiring and it convinced me there and then that in four years time I would have to if all possible be where I am right now to witness it. The giant rugby ball just like myself has spent alot of its time since traveling the world and taking its time to get here but it was nice to see my old friend once again yesterday on Aucklands waterfront.....

Separated in Paris - reunited in Auckland!

And so it begins, 20 teams, 48 games and a worldwide audience of approx. 2 billion people and thus for the next 7 weeks at least all eyes are on New Zealand. Its a pleasure and a privilege to be here in the thick of it. From where im staying its merrily a stones through to Auckland's waterfront which is "fan central" with its bars, restaurants, and huge screen tvs. It is also the venue for the opening day (today!) parade and firework display and giant Haka, so like the rest of the city im off the que for that in approx an hour and I guarantee its a celebration that will go on into the early hours of tomorrow morning. The city is electric not least with fans and supporters from all over the world but with the kiwis themselves and there very high expectations from Dan Carter, Richie McCaw and their fellow All Blacks. Everywhere in the city is decorated and ready to go and even the que to have a picture taken with the Webb Ellis Trophy (the World Cup itself!) took well over an hour but was certainly worth it....
The Rugby World Cup & Me

As for the first game of the All Blacks v Tonga it should really be a glorified training session for the much superior Kiwis, however I wont the the only one in the city secretly hoping the south pacific islanders give them a scare! The is some Irish interest in the game of note also as it will be refereed by Limerick man George Clancy. Its an interesting appointment as its just his first would cup but he is very experienced and just last month was the man in charge for the Australia's win over the All Blacks in their Tri-Nations decider. Also of interest is that he will be continuing a rugby world cup tradition of using the same coin & whistle that has been used at all world cups since their inception in 1987!!!

Ok so im off to enjoy the opening day festivities..... until tomorrow....

Blog - Fiji


Location: Auckland, New Zealand.
Time 20:05pm

Finally an update to the blog! As I mentioned in the previous post my lap-top charging cable was stolen in Lima Peru back in June. My efforts to replace it were unsuccessful and so finally I bit the bullet when passing through Los Angeles last Sunday week and purchased a new net book. Thus at last I can begin posting to the website again!

Its been 3 months since a proper update and what a 3 months it has been, more of South America and the States have been visited but those blog updates will come over the next few weeks. As mentioned above I am now in New Zealand, I am here for the Rugby World Cup but that blog as with the championships themselves will begin tomorrow! First up is my blog on Fiji where I had the privilege of spending all of last week.

In Feb 2010 when I began all this traveling I made a mental note that it would be great to travel long enough to make it to New Zealand for the Rugby World cup which at the time was almost 600 days away, today its only 1! With that in mind I booked my flights last March (2011) from LA to Auckland and was given the option of a lay-over in Fiji for either 2 hours or 5 days! I jumped at the 5 day layover option and so after a 10hr flight from LAX last Sun week I touched down in Nadi, the tourist capital of Fiji. Although just a 10 hour flight it was in fact Tuesday when I arrived as I had crossed the 180 meridian and thus the international dateline. I had seen the sun set in Los Angeles and as we landed in Nadi I could see it slowly rising on the horizon - it was 5.30am! Once through immigration the sun was up and so I decided to take a strol from the airport to the hostel which was 7.5kms away! I figured I had just spent 10hrs sitting on my a#s so I could have done with the exercise and regardless I couldn't check into the hostel until 8am. An hour and a half stroll later and I checked into the Sugarers Cove resort hostel which had a pretty spectacular view as I sat down for breakfast......
My Breakfast view at Smugglers Cove Fiji

I booked into the hostel for Tuesday and Wednesday night and basically chilled out! On Thursday I took the bus to Suva, Fiji's capital city which was an great way to see the country as the bus followed the coast road across the country. The bus stop in Suva was right outside the court house which intrigued me as for a country with such friendly people I was amazed that they had any criminals at all! On Friday morning I took a ferry to Beachcomber Is resort which lies among the Mananuca island's off the west coast of Fiji which also include the famous Treasure Island and Bounty Island which was the setting for the very classy "Love Island" with Abby Titmus and Calum Best & Co a few years back! Beachcomber is very much a party island and although only the size of a preverbal postage stamp it certainly didn't disappoint. 

Beachcomber Is Fiji

I had traveled to the Is with 3 English girls, Laura, Julie and Carly who were there to celebrate Laura's birthday and I could tell as soon as we had arrived that they had made a great destination choice. Accommodation was a combination of a hostel dorm and private beach huts called "Boure's" much to the amusement of the 4 irish women who were already on the island, all meals were included in the price which was one small consolation of having to spend $122 a night to be there in the first place. As we had arrived early and finished lunch I decided to spend the afternoon attempting the Beachcomber Is challenge which is basically a 2.8km swim (1.4km each way) to Treasure Is and back!!! I set off at 2.30 and touched land on Treasure Is 45mins later after what was a tough swim to say the least, im by no means a strong swimmer but im really stubborn and stubbornness won the day!. I had packed some coins into a zipped pocket to bury as "treasure" on Treasure Is (when in Rome and all that!) and once I had finished and marked the spot for future reference if I ever return or a child of mine returns in years to come I walked to the beach bar and ordered a much needed bottle of water only to realize that the only money i had to pay for the water I had just buried deep in the ground! To be fair to the bar man he laughed when I explained that I had just swam from Beachcomber and poured me a glass on the house instead. The swim back took even longer and more stubbornness than the swim out but the thoughts of the party to come that night kept me going and it didnt disappoint but as always there I cant write about everything here! Lets just say I certainly wouldn't be swimming to Treasure Is on the Sat..... I did however do some kayaking with the English Ladies (A very loose term considering their antics the night before!). On Sat evening another boat load of party goers arrived and that nights party didn't end until I got on the boat on Sunday morning when my sore head and I got on the boat back to Nadi and on to the airport to fly hear to Auckland. 

Beachcomber was defiantly a backpacker haven and I hat the privilege to meet so many other interesting travelers there including a guy who recognized my Carlow jersey and instantly asked if i knew a guy called "David Phelan"?? To which I answered that I certainly did and it turns out the this guy Richard Phillips from Northampton was a college friend of Davids and have even been drinking in my local bar in Borris!!! It certainly is a small world! 

Finally a quick story about New Zealand Immigration..... Air Pacific refused to board me onto the flight to Auckland because I didn't have an onward flight from New Zealand at the time of check-in... Now under normal circumstances I would totally understand the logic behind this but as I explained to the check-in lady.... "Im going to follow my national team at the Rugby World Cup, so how could I possible know when Ill be leaving???" Much as she agreed with me the New Zealand Immigration official didn't and insisted I buy a flight for whenever I thought Ireland would be finished with the world cup........... so I ended up buying a flight to Oz departing on October 26th.... 3 days after the world cup final....... Well a man has to be confident dosent he!!!......  

The Rugby World Cup according to Eddie begins tomorrow - until then......




Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Blog - Climbing Machu Picchu

At last an undate to this blog! Unfortunitly a combination of having my laptop charging cable stolen and very poor internet connectivity in Peru & Bolivia, I have been unable to update this blog regularly. I have however kept writing the blogs and over the next couple of days I will post to this site.
Location: Agnus Clientes, Peru.
Im awoken by a thunderous thump on the floor in the hostel dorm room, its 3am and the first of the early morning risers for Macchu Picchu that day are beginning to wake up although one seams to have nose dived to the floor from the top bunk rather than descend the ladder. Dominique, myself and Wei our new American/Aisan friend have set our alarms for 3.30am as we have decided to hike to the base of Macchu Picchu rather than take the bus which involves queuing by the bus stop at an unnatural 3.45 am in the morning!
Realising there is no more sleep to be had I rise myself and head to breakfast which in this hostal as with every other hostel near Macchu Picchu begins at 3am! Its very aparant that climbing Macchu Picchu is an early mornoing activity, the quest to see the sunrise over its magistic ruins and be one of the lucky 400 who get to climb Wayna Picchu that day are all to appealling and thus its the early risers who acheive the greatest experience from their visit.
Breakfast over with and backpack filled - complete with as many bananas I could steal from breakfast - we stepted out into the pitch black Agnus Clientes street and began our hike towards the entrance of this Inca trail wonder. As we strol our way through the cobbelled streets we pass the bus stop which has already a very long meandering que of people waiting for the first bus to depart. After approx 2kms of walking we arrive at the antrence to the Macchu Picchu national park - a bridge, that crosses a very fast flowing river. Here we meet up with the rest of the people who have decided to hike the 3kms of steep forest tail to Machu Picchu itself. They are mostly people who are on the final day of their Inca Trail experience and many look tired after the pervious 3 days hiking. The bridge opens at 5am and we begin the accent upwards. 5am in South America is uaually not pitch black but the height of the mountains surrounding us means that any potential moonlight is blocked off. Many prepared individuals had wise packed head torches, I however had to be content with the my ipnone and the Hectors breakfast radio show "keep her lit" app! It did the job just fine for me and many other backpackers along the treck!
An hours brisk climbing later and we arrived at the top to be greated by the the swarm of people waiting for the entrence whom had taken the busses to the top! Thankfully we were still among the first 200 to reach the entrence and recieved our stamps to climb Waynu Picchu at 7am. The gates opened at 6am and our Macchu Picchu experience had begun.
The ruins of Machu Picchu, rediscovered in 1911 by Yale archaeologist Hiram Bingham, are one of the most beautiful and enigmatic ancient sites in the world. While the Inca people certainly used the Andean mountain top (9060 feet elevation), erecting many hundreds of stone structures from the early 1400's, legends and myths indicate that Machu Picchu (meaning 'Old Peak' in the Quechua language) was revered as a sacred place from a far earlier time. Whatever its origins, the Inca turned the site into a small (5 square miles) but extraordinary city. Invisible from below and completely self-contained, surrounded by agricultural terraces sufficient to feed the population, and watered by natural springs, Machu Picchu seems to have been utilized by the Inca as a secret ceremonial city.
Two thousand feet above the rumbling Urubamba river, the cloud shrouded ruins have palaces, baths, temples, storage rooms and some 150 houses, all in a remarkable state of preservation. These structures, carved from the gray granite of the mountain top are wonders of both architectural and aesthetic genius. Many of the building blocks weigh 50 tons or more yet are so precisely sculpted and fitted together with such exactitude that the mortarless joints will not permit the insertion of even a thin knife blade. Little is known of the social or religious use of the site during Inca times. The skeletal remains of ten females to one male had led to the casual assumption that the site may have been a sanctuary for the training of priestesses and /or brides for the Inca nobility. However, subsequent osteological examination of the bones revealed an equal number of male bones, thereby indicating that Machu Picchu was not exclusively a temple or dwelling place of women.
One of Machu Picchu's primary functions was that of astronomical observatory. The Intihuatana stone (meaning 'Hitching Post of the Sun') has been shown to be a precise indicator of the date of the two equinoxes and other significant celestial periods. The Intihuatana (also called the Saywa or Sukhanka stone) is designed to hitch the sun at the two equinoxes, not at the solstice (as is stated in some tourist literature and new-age books). At midday on March 21st and September 21st, the sun stands almost directly above the pillar, creating no shadow at all. At this precise moment the sun "sits with all his might upon the pillar" and is for a moment "tied" to the rock. At these periods, the Incas held ceremonies at the stone in which they "tied the sun" to halt its northward movement in the sky. There is also an Intihuatana alignment with the December solstice (the summer solstice of the southern hemisphere), when at sunset the sun sinks behind Pumasillo (the Puma's claw), the most sacred mountain of the western Vilcabamba range, but the shrine itself is primarily equinoctial.
Shamanic legends tell that when a sensitive person touches their forehead to the Intihuatana stone it opens their vision to jthe spirit world, but I guess I'm not that sensitive as it didn't work for me! Intihuatana stones were the supremely sacred objects of the Inca people and were systematically searched for and destroyed by the Spaniards. When the Intihuatana stone was broken at an Inca shrine, the Inca believed that the deities of the place died or departed. The Spaniards never found Machu Picchu, even though they suspected its existence, thus the Intihuatana stone and its resident spirits remain in their original position. The mountain top sanctuary fell into disuse and was abandoned some forty years after the Spanish took Cuzco in 1533. Supply lines linking the many Inca social centers were disrupted and the great empire came to an end.
Up until July 24th 1911 this site had been unknown and unseen by the outside world and I can only imagine the surprise and awe experienced by its discoverer Hiram Bingham when he litterely stummbled across it! Since then it has become one of the seven historical wonders of the world visited by thousands annually inc me. However I certainly wasent the only Irish person to visit that day for as I was waiting in the que to climb Wayna Picchu two undeniably familiar accents wafted through the air beside me.... I turned to be greated by two Wexford lads complete with two hurls and a sliotar which they sneaked in past the sucurity guards down the back of their shirts and all set for a puck around on Macchu Picchu! You can take the boys out of Ireland but........ etc etc..... I befriended the two Ferns chaps and we actually spent a few days hanging out and doing a lot of drinking in Cusco in the days that followed but more about that in the next blog....

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Blog - Thursday June 9th 2011 - Reflections on turning 29!

Location: On a bus - 4 hrs from Cusco, Peru.

Today is my 29th birthday, it is also 10 years to the day that I sat my leaving cert and thus left school.  10 whole years - where does the time go?!! I can't honesty remember what poets came up in leaving cert English paper 2 that day but I do clearly remember that there was racing on the beach in Laytown that evening! Funny the things we remember eh?!

Leaving school is a time when everyone questions what they would like to do with their lives, where we would like to study, to work, what career we would like to pursue etc. For me I had no real idea what I wanted to do and I remember my Career Guidence teacher Ms Dononhue helping me answer those questions by asking me another - "where do I see myself in 10 years"?!! Well today is exactly 10 years and I find myself somewhere I didn't expect at all - on my to Machu Picchu high in the Andes mts in Peru.

As for the last 10 years...well I failed an accountancy exam at the end of my first year in collage in WIT and never returned to repeat it thus Im currently a collage drop out. I got a job worked my way up the corporate ladder until I could go no further and after 8 years got fired for "serious miss-conduct"...... So there you have it, collage drop out and corporate world failure...... Is that where I saw myself 10 years ago....... Of course not..... 10 years ago my vision was one of successful business man married with kids, the big house, the nice car in the garage etc etc....... And thankfully none of that ever happened!!!

Henry David Thoreau said that "most men lead lives of quite desperation" and he is right, I myself lived like this for at least 8 of the last 10 years.... The desperation being the need to meet the expectations I thought I had when in reality the expectations were not mine at all but those of the society I lived in. Get a collage degree, get a good job, get married, buy a house, have kids, grow old and die....... that is the expectation.... and just to make it more spicy we put pressure on ourselves to try achieve these things as soon as possible, we put time limits on it.... and god forbid someone you know achieves it before you because then society has thought us to feel bad about that like we are in some way failing at life!!! bollocks to the lot of it I say..... Life is not about what we can amass financially or materially or at what age we do it, nor is it about achieving a certain status among peers or colleges. The 'Rat Race" that society has become is depressing to say the least and I am glad to be out of it, Im even happy to admit that I failed at trying to live among it because even if you win the "rat race" your still only a god damn rat!

I have been lucky to have have spent the last 17 months traveling and living a life of relative simplicity and it has opened my eyes to alot of things. I have realized that I would rather travel the world than own a Ferrari for example but more importantly I have realized that I want to die happy knowing that I had actually lived rather than just being another employee, another mortgage holder, another car owner, another husband, another number..... another person who's "happiness" is limited to the time between 6pm on a Friday evening and 8am on a Monday morning! Im sure that I could be a millionaire if I put my mind to it, with hard work and a little luck anybody could, but whats the point in having all the money in the world if you have no idea how to live life and aspire to something other than that which shows your ability to accumulate wealth?! My grandmother used to say "you cant take it with you" and I certainly have no wish to end up the richest stiff in the cemetery. I have worked many many jobs in the last 17 months and can honestly say there hasnt been one day when I have woke up thinking... "god i hate my job do I really have to go to work today".... work has been a pleasure no matter how basic or menial the task and I have achieved far more with its proceeds than I ever did from my so called "career" job! But thats me, I do not for one second suggest that those with career jobs are living incorrectly... not in the slightest, I wish the best to everyone and anyone who is doing what they wish with their lives but only if they are completely happy and content doing so for in 20 years we will all regret far more the things we didn't do than the things we did!

I guess in alot of ways I have spent the last 17 months taking "the road less traveled by" as Frost would say and yes it certainly has made all the difference. I have stood on the same beach Columbus did when he conquered the new world, Ive climbed mountains, swam rivers and explored new worlds on 3 continents and most importantly I have opened my eyes to the world we live in and it has opened its eyes to me. I have discovered that only an open mind is needed to communicate not being able to speak 40 languages and that there are no such thing as strangers just - friends we haven't met yet. From time to time we all witness or experience something that makes us proclaim those very overused words "Life is Short" and it is! Where has the last 10 years gone?? and the next 10 and the rest until the day I pass will be just as quick and so if I have achieved nothing in the last 10 years other than that realization then I have far exceeded where I saw myself 10 years ago for I wont live my life with regrets. I have no idea where I will be tomorrow, next week or next year but I do know that when the day comes that I draw my last breath my final thoughts will be happy ones as I will know that I actually lived! When I need money I will work and when I have money I will travel. I know the day will come that I will meet someone and marry, and when that day comes I will stand on the alter with no regrets either as the wild oaths will be well and truly sowed by then. I look forward to raising a family and I am sure I will even have a stationary postal address but I will never "settle" as to settle is to accept the current status quo, life is to be lived not just accepted! Henry Van Dyke wrote "Let me but live my life from year to year with forward face and unreluctant soul"and I think he had a point! and at the end of the same poem he stated "my heart will keep the courage for the quest, and hope the roads last turn will be the best"! Enough said!

So there you go I guess todays blog is more "reflections on turning 29" than anything else, as I said I cant remember what poets came up in my leaving cert but I have quoted 3 in this blog - poetry bored me in school as it was taught wrong but in later life I have enjoyed it..... as for failing that accountancy exam in college - I have taken pride in writing "accountant" in the Occupation box on every immigration form at every border crossing I have come across on my travels.... nobody has ever asked me to produce my degree from WIT!! So heres to being 29, I doubt I will be a millionaire by the time I am 30 but I will have seen the world and I would have "settled" for that 10 years ago!!

Time to get some sleep before the 2 busses and 2 trains required to get to Machu Picchu....... until tomorrow...

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Blog - June 6th & 7th 2011



I have arrived in Arica in the north of Chile but without my laptop charger whereever that has disappeared to!!! So looks like my blog is going to be an iPhone 4 production from here on in!

So we are at approx step 5 of a 12 step trip to Cusco! 29hrs on the bus to this point here on the Chile/Peru border. From here it's another hours bus to Tackna in Peru then 10hrs to Arquipa and then a further 7hrs to Cusco, from there another bus, a train, a 2k hike, another train and then Machu Picchu! Its a lot of travel but will be worth it, doubt I will get to climb it on Thursday as I wish but on Friday instead.

The altitude is intense here and will only get higher from here on. Enjoying some sugar-puffs for breakfast this morning which is cool! Ok have to run and catch another bus now..... Until tomorrow....

Monday, June 6, 2011

Blog - June 3rd, 4th, & 5th, 2011



Location: Santiago, Chile.

I have been in Santiago Chile since Friday last staying with a friend I met while traveling in the Dominican Republic back in January. Its been a very hectic weekend ans thus I am only getting around to a blog update now but even this will be short as I am catching a bus heading north in an hour!

I awoke Friday on the the bus from Buenos Aires to Santiago just as we reached the Andes mountains on the Argentinean side which was a really spectacular sight to awaken too! Higher and higher we climbed all the way to the Chilean border where we had a long delay while clearing immigration and customs. As with Uruguay the actually process of leaving one country and entering the other was as simple as my passport being handed over a desk as both the Chilean & Argentiaian officials shared the same booth! The road trip from the border down the mountains in Santiago was even more impressive than the Argentinean side and it was very easy to see that it was the Chillianians who had the much more difficult task of building roads at their side to link the two countries.

The most compelling change in view from the mountains to the huge city of santiago was the very evident cloud of smog hanging over the city. Im told Santiago is the second most polluted city in the world after Mexico City and i would certainly believe it. The city is im told surrounded by mountains on all sides but the smog put pay to any chance of seeing them years ago. On Friday night I went with Dominiq to a party with some of her local friends where I met a buck from Croom Co Limerick who is after riding his motor cycle from Alaska all the way to the southerly most tip of South America and now he is on his way back up! He hasent escaped the affections of a certain Chilean girl however so has decied to stay around here for awhile and "see what happens"... I dont blame - she gorgeous... and speaking of which Chilean woman are very forward.... which is great to be honest - cuts out all the bullshit!!! Im getting to like Latin Culture!

Saturday I strolled the city and checked out the history of Bernardo O'Higgins, a man of Irish ancestry who was one of the founding fathers of Chile won won its independence from Spain. On Sat night I was invited to dinner at the apartment of girlfriend of the Limerick boy and had a great night there listening to her friends stories about Chile, its struggles and also some local music. We even had a few beers on the top of the apartment building which had some excellent views of the city.

Yesterday I took the bus to the seaside port of Valparassio and now today I heading north to San Pedro del AtClama about 1500kms away and a 20hr bus journey. My friend Dominiq has decided to come with me, she is from Indonesia and similarly to me has spent some time traveling in North America and as I mentioned earlier I met her in the Dominican Republic in January, she intends traveling to Bogota in Columbia as do I however I intend seeing some of Bolivia but she needs a visa being from Indonesia but we will see how that works out ..... I have broken worse rules..... until tomorrow!

Saturday, June 4, 2011

Blog - Thursday June 2nd 2011



Location: On a bus somewhere between Buenos Aires & Santiago!

Im sitting on a bus about 2 hours from Mendoza and approx. 7 hrs into a 22hr bus trip from Buenos Aires Argentina to Santiago Chile. The movie "Inception" has just finished playing on the in-bus entertainment system and most other passengers are now preparing to sleep - its midnight. My laptop battery indicator tells me I have 35mins of power left so just enough time to blog about yeaterdays boat trip to Colonia de Sacramanto in Uruguay.

As the boat docked in the harbor of the small seaside resort the first and most obvious thing I noticed was clear skies! Having spent the best part of 3 weeks in some of South Americas smog polluted cities it was refreshing to be once again out in the open and fresh air. Colonia Del Sacramento is actually the oldest town in Uruguay and has a population of about 21,000 so its be no means small. In a lot of ways it reminded me of Newport Rhode Is where I spent a couple of months in early 2010. I took a stroll to the tourist office and inquired what was worth seeing during my 6 hour stay. Despite having not a word of english the assistant marked a couple of spots worth visiting and so map in had I headed off on a 5km trek to see something called "The Bullring". The walk itself was all along the beach and sure enough I spotted the old ruins of what must have been a huge arena in its day standing derelict with nothing nothing in it bar the glare of the midday sun. Signs in Spanish stood as warning to potential trespassers and even a police man sat in his car at its entrance although I could swear he was asleep!

Much more interestingly I found next to the Bullring an abandoned railway station which was now a "train grave yard" complete with old time carriages from a more regal time. On the map I also noticed the "Hippodrome" and it was very close to where I was standing and being the horse racing fan that I am I just had  to check it out. I have seen a lot of impressive things on my travels but the sight of this old racecourse with its wrought iron gateway, tree lined entrance avenue and even a chalk results board was like stepping back in time to the 1940s (when the track opened!). I would even say that nothing had been changed, improved or modernized since the first day a horse completed a circuit there. There were some workmen re-sanding a patch of the course just past the finishing line but they paid no attention to me as I let myself in and wondered around the paddock, the parade ring and the stands. I have been to Aintree, Cheltenham, Longchamp and even Churchill Downs (only a month ago) but this deserted racetrack in the back arse of Uruguay trumped them all at that very moment and I sat there in the stands for a good twenty minutes imagining what this place was like on a typical 1940s race day! Its the simple things in life that I like and the simplicity of this place made sitting there basking in its glory a blissful pleasure and I would have sat there in the sunshine all day but I had to hike the 5km back into town!

Back in the town center I found a nice cafe/bar on the pier and sat to have some lunch. I had no sooner bitten into my grub than I had one of those "jesus you cant go anywhere moments" as two women in their mid 30s one of which had a very recognizable Irish accent sat down at the table beside me. Now I didn't know her but I could easily place the accent to a town in south Co. Tipperary, a town I once knew well and Im sure she and I probably knew some of the same people from there. I thought about saying hello until they began a very personal conversation about relationships, sex when they were teenagers and even fears of dogs and clocks!!! It was only then that I realized that these two obviously thought (being as we were in Uruguay!) that I didn't speak a word of English and sure who was I to ruin their assumption! On and On the conversation went... I eventually learned that they were sisters and from a large family (not uncommon for this town in Tipp either!!) however one of them had an essex twang to her accent and as the conversation proceeded I learned that she had moved away and married in the UK but had recently gone through a divorce. Funny as all of this was and indeed their complete careless attitude to what they were talking about in public, what struck me as most humor-some was that typically Irish trait  possessed only by Irish women where they can have a two hour conversation with someone else without listening to a single word that person is saying!!!  Its really an art.... and these two were experts at it and completely oblivious to it at the same time. The first woman started a conversation about her boyfriends (god help the chap!) fear of dogs while her sister talked at the same time about her recent divorce... neither missed a beat however and thus produced a symphony of nonsense that any unwilling eves-dropper (ie me!)could only laugh at.... but i couldn't laugh remember as they thought I couldn't understand a word they were saying! These two had serious issues.... like who the hell has a fear of clocks???... and both were in therapy... figures! Really hope that works out for them. I could have sat there and been entertained by them for hours but the sun was setting and my boat was leaving..... I was really really tempted to say hello in my Irish accent as I was leaving but resisted - after all these two had enough problems all ready!!!

Time to get some shut-eye myself and awaken to the sights of the Andes mountains... Until tomorrow.

Video - Crazy road through the Andes

Argentina/Chile - Crazy road through the Andes

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Blog - Wednesday June 1st 2011


Blog – Wednesday June 1st 2011

Location: On a ferry across the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires, Argentina to Colonia, Uruguay.

Its June 1st! Where does the time go? Today marks 17 months since I left Ireland. That’s 485 days. Seven countries and 29,000 miles later I find myself on a ferry between Argentina & Uruguay on a quest to see country number 8.

The only things I know about Uruguay is it was the destination for the first world cup in 1930 which was won by the hosts as was the 1934 world cup. Diego Forlan the infamous Man Utd disaster singing is also from there. If you are regular reader of my blogs you will know that I don’t do much research on the countries I visit. This is not laziness or due to a lack of interest, quite the opposite in fact, I do it very very deliberately. Countries are to be experienced first-hand not just read about in books with recommendations of the same regurgitated nonsense of where to visit, what to see, where to eat etc etc. Yes I don’t deny that they have their uses for some but when Columbus set off to discover the new world in 1492 he didn’t have the benefit of the internet or the Lonely Planet Guide now did he?, he instead travelled in complete naivety and ignorant bliss and thus his experiences and that of other worldly explorers were completely genuine and more truthful than many of todays “tourists”. I don’t for one second compare myself to Columbus, de Gama or Magellan but I do share their desire to experience things with their own eyes and thus I will form my own opinions on this world we live in through my own experience of its sights, people, and cultures.

As for that word “tourist” I wouldn’t class myself as one either. After 17 months of traveling this is currently a lifestyle choice and thus I would consider myself more of a “Nomad” than a tourist. Tourists stay for the weekend and buy souvenirs, I'm more likely to buy the local newspaper and apply for a job! Tourists only need two things in order to travel - vacation time and a visa card. Nomads need tree – Balls, Naivety and Patients. Balls to “up sticks” and leave a life you have been comfortable in behind and decide to travel in the first place. Naivety to experience the world for what it is, to try new things without fear and to take on everything and anything – because if you were to stop to think logically about what you were doing you probably wouldn’t do half the things you did! And lastly patients for what we discover in the world, whether it is something as simple as a bad mannered check in assistant at the airport or that person that that just won’t stop snoring in the hostel dorm to more emotionally charged experiences like seeing starving children begging in city streets or slums, religious or political persecution – patients is a virtue for all.

Right now however patients is not required at all as I look out the ferry window  across the vast body of water that is the Rio de la Plata and enjoy the effect its calmness is reciprocating in me. Indeed if only this cup of coffee I’m drinking had been a lot cheaper that the $6 it cost me I would have nothing in the world to complain about this morning what so ever!

I have curiously always enjoyed taking boat trips, as a kid the best part of going to England to visit relatives was always the ferry crossing from Roslare to Pembrooke or Fishguard. Today’s sailing is almost similar in duration and the ferry I’m on is practically identical to the Steana lynx complete with duty free shop, bar and of course other passengers! Sitting at the table across from me are a couple I have been chatting to from Houston Texas. They are here on weeks’ vacation, its very obvious that he has no interest whatsoever in this day trip they are taking to Uruguay but she cant shut up about it and proceeds to tell me every minute detail of what has to been seen in Colonis del Secramento (the place we are sailing to) -  see as above who needs the lonely planet?! More interesting though are the couple sitting behind me, she is certainly Australian but his accent I can’t quite place. My guess is that today’s excursion is a date and one of the early ones in their relationship also judging by the nonsense conversation they are having, seriously sweetheart he doesn’t want to know about your first trip to the dentist when you were 5, and you sideshow bob lookalike should really shut up about all the places you have been surfing! I can tell that this chick is into him (it’s a given that he is into her or he wouldn’t be on the date in the first place!) but if he keeps going the way he is he will have talked himself out of any chance with her by lunchtime…. Us men we really don’t know when to stop talking do we??

As for me I’m slowly learning when to stop writing and so that’s enough rambling for today….  Just enough time for another $6 cup of coffee before the boat docks in Uruguay………Until tomorrow

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Blog - Tuesday May 31st 2011



Location: ABH Hostel, Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Todays blog will be short and sweat as I have a boat to catch to Uruguay. Yesterday I visited the La Recolata cemetery and saw the tomb of Eva Peron (Evita), indeed I and half the tourists in Buenos Aires were there yesterday or so it seemed! Many of course only see her tomb and nothing else, but for me it was only secondary to real reason I wanted to visit what has to be the worlds eeriest cemetery as its not like the coffins are buried.... no no no they are placed under alters in lavishly built mini churches and thus visable for everyone to see. Anyway I was there to see a much less visited tomb than that of Eva Peron's, I would even go as far as to say that most people visiting her tomb would never have even heard of the guy whose resting place was of far more interest to me and I could almost guarantee that they had never heard of his home town either - Foxford Co. Mayo! I was here to see the resting place of an Irish man with more balls than most who left "Penal law" Ireland to set out on an adventure and ended up founding the the Argentinean navy...... and all because he essentially hated the English! His name - Admiral William Brown. He really was a remarkable man and his history is well worth reading. Here is brief passage from Wikipedia - After the fall of the Rosas regime many naval officers found themselves discharged, but not the Commander of the Navy. Brown remained honoured for his long and loyal service to the nation. Retiring to his villa, Casa Amarilla at Barracas, Brown was visited by Grenfell, his opponent in the Brazilian war, who remarked how ungrateful the Republic was to its good servants; the old Admiral replied: "Mr Grenfell, it does not burden me to have been useful to the mother country of my children; I consider the honours and the wealth superfluous when six feet of earth are enough to rest so many difficulties and pains." In my opinion he has to be one of the greatest Irish historical figures and if he had been around during the Falklands war in the early 1980s Maggie Tatcher would have had a lot more to deal with than what ultimately transpired.

Lastly I have to comment on the latest "Irish Bar" I have come across! Its called the..... wait for it... "Classic Irish Bar" yes indeed... this place has jumped to the top of the list of so called Irish Bars abroad that need a match set to them! This place is a whore house! I kid you not - complete with leprechaun sized pimp outside the door who makes no secret of the services offered inside.... "you speaka de english" he says to me as I walk by... "I do" I say, "you wanta chicichitas??"" $100 all night... anything you want".......... "Really" I say "anything I want" I reply...... "yesh" he says and his eyes light up at the prospect of a customer! "well what I want is a pint of Guinness - do you serve that in your 'Classic Irish bar'??"" he hesitates.... "eh no senior" but the girls the girls"....... "Not much good to me so mate" I replied, ..... "sure theres many a bar in Ireland where women are free and Guinness is on-tap amigo..... change your bars name - it aint very Classic"......I could only laugh as I walked away.

Today im off to Uraguay... until tomorrow.